Today I’d just like to discuss the different types of crafted rubber shoe soles that we are currently using to give a more youthful flair to classic designs. It’s like putting colorful nylon NATO straps on your classic design watches which gives a new dimension to the styling and feel of the watch almost immediately. Except for the S-Type soles, that one is purely for sneaker style use and cannot be implemented on classic/brogue styling, not unless… it a brogue sneaker. O_O”
The rubber shoe type soles are perfect for those planning to transition from a more athletic styling into a more classic pair without having to completely overhaul the wardrobe and feel uncomfortable with the stiffer and heavier construction of a standard welted pair. Most rubber shoe types are constructed either with EVA or PU molded soles which create a very lightweight pair. I personally like to use a more natural rubber outsole material to have more durability and grip on the pair while also giving it that retro look with the zigzag pattern. I also prefer using EVA against PU since we can better craft custom pairs with sheet EVA rather than molded PU which has a fixed shape, length and width thus limiting us to standard sizing.
S-Type (Sneaker Type)
This build creates an almost flat form profile which can be found on classic retro Asics/Onitsuka or Nike Cortez pairs. The wedge is usually around 6mm thick and normally in a different color (to match the color them of the pair) then another 6mm midsole (normally in white or black) which tapers off towards the tip of the shoe. The final outsole is usually rubber but sometimes our clients request for the use of airsoles or upcycled “airplane” tire interiors. Perfect for casual outfits which you wear with standard sporty sneakers.
Due to the thinner soles, the shoes are generally more flexible and have an overall low profile which fits well as a more retro athletic pair. Our tops13 and CE15 lasts are best used with the S-Type sole.
R-Type (Rubber Shoe Type)
The R-Type soles are constructed similarly to the S-Type but with a thicker 15mm wedge for more support and lift. The wedge also fits better on our standard lasts which then allows for us to have our standard designs implemented on rubber shoe soles. The R-Type sole is inspired by classic rubber shoe constructions typically found during the 1980s and is the build for the classic New Balance 574s. The midsole also tapers less and has a fuller profile as compared to the S-Type. The shoe is also Blake stitched to add durability to the build in case there is a faulty batch of adhesives or weakening due to exposure to moisture. Great with casual to formal attires (as long you’re just attending and not participating, unless you are a host) depending on the upper that is used with the sole.
The boosted wedge provides a standard profile which provides adequate support for longer use. Best used with our CE15, C013, and i016 lasts although our foreman just created his R-Type oxford captoes using the s013 last.
Our Luna soles have been our best seller due to nature of the design of the midsoles. Inspired by the Cole Haan LunarGrand wingtips which became mainstream 3 years ago, it has become an alternative to the LunarGrands for those looking to spend a little less while getting a custom pair made specifically for them. The Luna is constructed using three 6mm – 7mm EVA sheets which are individually sculpted/rounded to give it that iconic bubble look. While there are LunarGrand replica soles in the market, the nature of PU molded soles are not fit for the requirements especially since we mostly deal with custom fitting pairs which require for each set of soles to be individually crafted based on the width of the client’s foot. As with the R-Types, the Lunas are also Blake stitched with natural rubber outsoles to provide added durability to the pair. Luna soles are available in white (most popular), black and brown.
Classic Lunas are best on the C013 last with derby lacing designs, penny loafers, and classic chukka boots.